The Best of Edinburgh

The old adage goes: “The only constant is change.” And while many parts of Edinburgh may appear to have resisted that truth, much of what can be experienced of this stunning city is in the way changes of seasons, faces, festivals, cultures, and foods inhabit the ancient buildings and gentle hills of this spectacular place tucked away in the southeast part of Scotland near the borders.

Even the climate here mirrors the same maxim. In fact, it is famed author Alexander McCall Smith credited with writing: “This is a city of shifting light of changing skies, of sudden vistas. A city so beautiful it breaks the heart again and again.” Gentle rains make the ground lush with life, winds carry dense fog in off the seas, the city blooms brilliantly in the spring, and burns beautifully with color each autumn.

It has been a haven for artists, academics, musicians, scholars, and writers for centuries, houses the Scottish seats of governmental power and has been the capital of Scotland since at least the 15th century. The culture is diverse and vibrant, with sojourners from around the world finding wonder in this gem nestled in the North of the United Kingdom.

FESTIVALS

The dynamic fusion of culture, art, government, and academia make Edinburgh a flashpoint of creative energy that draws nearly five million tourists from around the globe annually. One of the hallmarks of this beautiful Old World city is the prominent place it holds on the the international stage of the Arts. Edinburgh plays host annually to some of the most spectacular cultural events the world over, seeing the city’s population nearly double at certain times of the year in anticipation of these incredible displays of human achievement and spirit.

Edinburgh International Festival and the Festival Fringe

If you’re fortunate enough to be in Edinburgh during the month of August, you’ll notice a curious swell in foot traffic, hotel occupancy, short term rentals, and art on the streets of the city. These are all the fruit of an endeavor that first debuted in 1947 and has occurred every year since (except in 2020), which aims to captivate audiences through expressions of music, drama, opera, and dance. Elite performances from across the globe come by invitation only, and some works are only performed for the first time on the iconic stages around the city.

Given the elite nature of the festival, it’s only fitting that snubbed artists, street performers, and creative expressions considered somewhat lower brow or too avant garde by comparison would rebel with festivals of their own in keeping with the defiant Scottish spirit. The Edinburgh International Festival has now become eclipsed by the Edinburgh Festival Fringe—which holds the title of the largest arts festival in the world, with well over fifty thousand performances occurring over the course of about three and a half weeks in flats, homes, warehouses, gardens, pubs, on the streets, and in major venues. In fact, Edinburgh calls more than ten festivals home during the month of August.

Some artists rise to fame here, and a street performer you pass today could stand under an international spotlight tomorrow because of the incredible influence on the world stage of the Fringe, the International Festival, and the others that cropped up in their wake.

Christmas Market

Not to let the festivities die with the summer, as the days shorten, the holiday celebrations do not. Throughout autumn, there are opportunities to enjoy the bounties of the season and the shifting in the light, but nearly as soon as Halloween ends in Edinburgh, preparations begin for Christmas. Along Princes Street, in the shadow of the castle and close to some of the busiest shops in the city, buildout begins annually for the Christmas Market. Purveyors of goods, food, and drink from across Europe come to set up street stalls, and giant amusement park rides clash with the classic architecture of the city for the attention of passersby through the New Year. You can pick up gifts for friends and family and treasures for yourself while you sip mulled wine, hot chocolate, or cider beneath the dazzling lights of a Christmas village right in the heart of one of Europe’s most iconic cities.

The celebration spills out into other parts of Edinburgh as well, with a wide array of events cropping up primarily in the streets of New Town. Some attractions even include pop-up concerts and ice skating rinks.

Hogmanay

Even after Christmas and Boxing Day have passed, Edinburgh keeps the holiday lights burning. The city plays host to a world record breaking New Years bash that can last four to five days some years and ends in a truly stunning fireworks finale over Edinburgh Castle, complete with midnight cannon fire, a viking torch parade you can join, and bonfires on Calton Hill that can be two to three stories high.

The holiday is called Hogmanay across the country, a word of dubious origin, encompassing numerous traditions. It’s certainly a spectacle in the Scottish capital.

Many festival events throughout the year are ticketed, so it’s important to plan ahead so that you can be a part of the incredible arts and culture scene in Edinburgh during your stay.

LANDMARKS

Calton Hill

You can take in sweeping vistas of the iconic Edinburgh skyline from the top of Calton Hill at the east end of Princes Street, knowing you stand on one of seven principal hills the city is built

upon. This spot is well known for the National Monument, an unfinished replica of the Parthenon in Greece, and the City Observatory at its summit, as well as swaths of green space, and numerous other historic buildings. It overlooks Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat to the Southeast and Leith and the Firth of Fife to the North.

This popular locale is a favorite spot for enjoying some of the city’s larger events, and more than one fire festival is held at the National Monument annually.

The Royal Mile

The Royal Mile is the succession of historical roadways, “closes”, and squares that cut through Old Town from the base of Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It’s filled with restaurants, pubs, shops, merchants, and buskers and stays lively throughout the year.

The attractions become obvious, as you find yourself near some of the most stunning buildings in Europe and a stone’s throw from museums, galleries, cathedrals, and institutions of higher learning. You can cut your way down the hillside through a close—the narrow walkways between buildings—and find yourself enveloped in hidden pockets of Edinburgh’s fine architecture.

This is the perfect place to be if you want to hear the iconic drone of bagpipes interspersed with the local talent of street performers. Many historic tours begin and end on the Royal Mile and include a walk through the vaults under the city where tens of thousands used to live in centuries past or the partially buried street called the Mary King’s Close. Edinburgh has no shortage of ghost stories and intrigue embedded in its culture and history.

Green Space and Gardens

While Edinburgh is a sprawling urban center with a population estimated to be just over half a million, it’s by no means devoid of greenery. For the nature lover, Edinburgh offers access to a number of incredible parks and gardens. Scotland enjoys a temperate climate thanks to the gulf stream waters that travel north from the Caribbean and the South Atlantic. This means that many plants can live and thrive throughout the year here. Edinburgh’s sprawling Royal Botanic Gardens are proof of this, covering about seventy acres of the city and free for admission year round. The gardens transform with flowers of spring and the rich colors of fall, and the glass houses are home to tropical plants and trees that remain green long through the winter.

South of the botanic gardens and just below the bustle of Princes Street, Princes Gardens unfolds at the feet of the castle in the heart of the city with incredible fountains, beautifully manicured lawns, and meticulously cared-for flower beds. It’s an idyllic space for picnics and sunbathing when the weather is warm, and the sun is out. Take a break from shopping and sit in the grass while you gaze up at the Royal Mile.

No green space in Edinburgh is more iconic than Holyrood Park about a mile east of the castle. It’s home to the tallest point in the city, Arthur’s Seat, as well as the Salisbury Crags and other natural features shaped from the remains of an ancient volcano. The park covers more than 650 acres, and even boasts some ruins and lochs. There’s nothing quite like a view of the city from the summit of Arthur’s Seat or sitting on the edge of the Crags as the famous Scottish haar rolls in off the sea and covers the city in an other-worldly fog. The hills in the park are adorned with Scottish gorse that blooms brilliantly gold nearly half the year between January and June, peaking in the late spring. The scent of the thorny bushes is intoxicating, heady, and sweet.

Another popular spot for picnics, cookouts, sport, and play is the Meadows, near Edinburgh University and south of the city center. With playgrounds, paths, grass lawns, and even a public golf course, the Meadows are central to outdoor living in the city throughout the year. It’s a fine place to meet with friends and barbecue or take a contemplative stroll and brood in the fashion of many of Edinburgh’s famous writers from history.

A less trafficked Local Nature Reserve lies south of Morningside district and encompasses Blackford Hill, Braid Hills, and the Hermitage at Braid. The hermitage is a woodland park with stunning forest trails, a river, and access to the surrounding hillsides from which visitors can once again view the city of Edinburgh and the countryside just beyond its streets. For the traveler seeking solace in nature, there are few better places in the city.

For those wishing to escape town for a while, the Pentland Hills offer little respite from the weather but perfect refuge for the heart of the avid hiking enthusiast—or “hill climbing”, as it’s called there. The Lothian Buses smart phone app is recommended to get you there, but fair is cheap for a regional park that feels like you’re already in the Highlands.

CAFE CULTURE

While Britain may be known for its love of tea, Edinburgh is no stranger to coffee as well. No trip to this city is complete without staring listlessly out the window of some of these honorable mentions. Each has its own intrinsic charm and is here for its own reasons. And each generally offers lifestyle friendly choices for the dietetically discerning.

Lowdown

For the modern coffee man or woman riding the third wave of cafe culture through town, this is a must-stop shop when you’re anywhere in New Town. Take your coffee to go as you explore the chic shops and restaurants nestled in the Victorian townscape of George Street.

Cult Espresso

Cult Espresso calls Newington home and boasts its own locally roasted coffee and a rustic ode to the hipster motif with its indoor atmosphere.

Love Crumbs

The irresistible charm and mismatched whimsy of Love Crumbs has an immediate mass appeal for the cafe crawlers of the world. But despite the devil-may-care aesthetic, their baked goods are anything but careless. True to their name, this fine establishment puts passion into their work and brings in fresh baked delights from their sister location daily (Nice Times Bakery).

Cairngorm Coffee

Cairngorm Coffee takes its name from the mountains that are found in the Eastern Highlands of Scotland, but it takes the heart with its grilled cheese sandwiches and flat whites. The Melville Street location is on a bustling corner with ample room in the bright cafe for reading, study, or good conversation. From there, it’s a short walk to Dean Village, a historic mill town, where you can dream of bygone eras with ease.

DINING

Edinburgh is no stranger to fine cuisine, given its prominence on the international arts and culture scene. You can find some Michelin Star restaurants like Condita or Number One in the Balmoral Hotel or other local favorites such as those of the Montpeliers group. If you want diverse offerings with fine cocktails and interesting aesthetics, then book a table at Rabble, a coal-fired taphouse and grill (which is also a boutique hotel in New Town), the Candy Bar, Indigo Yard, and the namesake in Bruntsfield: Montpeliers.

Portobello Beach

When the weather is right, and the ocean calls, Edinburgh has its own beach town vibes at Portobello Beach. Rent a bike to cruise the coastline, sun yourself in the sand, or even brave the icy waters of the north Atlantic like some of the locals if you’re feeling brave enough. Numerous restaurants line the bustling boardwalks and seaside streets.

Ceilidhs

Nothing seems more rousingly Scottish than these traditional social dances. Don’t know how to pronounce it? It sounds like: Kay-Lee. Don’t know the steps? Someone will teach you, and a Caller will guide you through. One of the best places in Edinburgh to join the dance is at the weekends at Ghillie-Due on the west end of Princes Street. Enjoy the general ambiance of the space, live music, the fervor for the dance, and drinks to boot when you book a spot to step in time with the Scots.

Skittles

If you won’t jig and reel, but you still want to step back in time with a traditional British experience, book a lane at the Sheep’s Heid Inn. This pub has great food and drink offerings, but the real treasures are the lanes where you can set up and knock down your own pins while you unwind after a long day of exploration. It’s old world bowling, and the atmosphere works its charm to take you back in time.

Edinburgh Travel Guide